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Post by drix76 on May 15, 2009 21:55:35 GMT -5
Well... I got the driver seat today. I will have everything else on Tues. The rear plastic, and cover for the base still need painted black. But here it is!! It looks good, the material is nice, they built up the foam, so they are nice and firm, and sit up higher now too! The back seat will match the same, I'll take more pics later. OLD NEWWWW
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 16, 2009 17:46:10 GMT -5
Thats a big difference and i gotta say that i do like it. Not a big fan of tan anyways, but I like the 2 tone al whole lot better.
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Post by twomanymontes on May 16, 2009 20:01:58 GMT -5
WOW! I like that! I liked the tan too, but the two tone really stands out. Nice Job!!!
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Post by drix76 on May 18, 2009 19:45:53 GMT -5
For a complete overhaul, they came out very nice. There is stitching in the top seperating the headrest from the sides, its just hard to see in the picture. I definitely need to break them in. It sits up higher than usual, it might take a little getting use to. I should have the rest of the tomorrow. They covered up the holes on the side up top where the seat belt loop mount goes.. I'm going to have to figure out a tricky way to find the holes, i can feel the metal bar with my fingers, but im going to have to get something i can poke at the seat with to find the holes. grr..
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 18, 2009 19:58:50 GMT -5
Leather awl will work, but its just the idea of putting a hole into the new covers.
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Post by drix76 on May 18, 2009 23:56:50 GMT -5
Leather awl?? I dont know what that is. well there are always holes there for where the mount screws on. I had to put holes in the headliner a while ago, that was nerve racking enough!
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 20, 2009 19:32:46 GMT -5
A screwdriver without the tip. Just pointed on the end. A lot of Craftsman screwdriver sets will come with a scratch awl. I use it mainly to help line up holes.
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Post by drix76 on May 20, 2009 20:01:45 GMT -5
ahh, ok. Thats what I was thinking, I just didnt know it had a name, haha. I can feel the bar, and I have an extra set of seats still sitting around.. maybe I can use those as a guide and poke around in the right spot.
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 21, 2009 7:30:56 GMT -5
I don't see y not, u have the tools to locate it correctly. Measure twice poke once, right?
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Post by drix76 on May 22, 2009 19:31:42 GMT -5
I don't see y not, u have the tools to locate it correctly. Measure twice poke once, right? I actually called the shop today, they just have the bottom of my rear seat left. I asked about seat belt loop mounts, they said they know exactly where they are, and no problem. Another worry I can forget now
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 22, 2009 19:43:47 GMT -5
Glad to hear it.
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Post by drix76 on May 22, 2009 23:43:42 GMT -5
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Post by drix76 on May 23, 2009 0:10:12 GMT -5
I also have a set of nice power windows to put in the Monte too. I was thinking about putting like a 6" speaker where the window crank is in the panel, and putting the window switches elsewhere. How's on the sides of the center console sound to everyone? I dont think I'd have room to put a switch AND a speaker on the lower panel, it'd look cheesy and half assed.
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Post by twomanymontes on May 23, 2009 7:21:30 GMT -5
Chrome valve covers will look great! But I had a few bad experiances with Proform product, Cheaply made parts and a set of Valve covers didn't have the holes drilled right. I know the billet ones cost more, but since they are stronger than stamped steel, it is well worth it, plus a little polish and they are good as new, while Chrome has a tendancy to pit. Well around here it does, LOL!
And for the window switch, I can't picture the console, Is there a place on the front of it behind the shifter that you could install the driver's master switch only? Like the 80's Camaros did? Thats the way my Son's are, who ever converted the car to power windows, ran it that way and it looks pretty cool.
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 23, 2009 20:39:12 GMT -5
If u do chrome, take a wire wheel to the gasket area on the bottom side of the cover. That way it will seal up. Chrome plating will have leaks way too often. The bare steel will b covered with a gasket and seal alot better.
Speakers need to be low on the doors typically to clear the windows and the regulators. You could always use the kick panels and keep the switches in the doors.
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Post by drix76 on May 23, 2009 21:41:26 GMT -5
what about a little sandpaper? that sounds easier? I know what you mean about chrome leaking. My friends therm housing leaks all the time. I dont see how the kick panels will work with the parking brake on the driver side. You cant push the brake down without scraping the speaker, or at least it looks that way.
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 24, 2009 9:10:56 GMT -5
Depends on what u want to do. That E-Brake can be tweaked in places so that it will still hang correctly and clear the speaker and brake pedal.
Someone atually makes these kick panels for the 4th gen Montes. Q Logic maybe.
But, I dont find anything for 1st or 2nd Gens.
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Post by drix76 on May 24, 2009 15:22:20 GMT -5
OPGI makes them for the 1st gen, but skips the 2nd, imagine that huh?
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Post by 85t5mcss on May 24, 2009 18:56:58 GMT -5
I can't believe that GM would have made them different for the 2 gens. 3rd and 4th were the same. If u can do fibreglass work, u could make your own. Just gotta watch the E Brake clearance. U can't tweak it too much.
If u can get a 2nd set of kick panels at a reasonable price, u could cut the speaker hole, put the wooden ring around it, and fibreglass it in and u would b all set.
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Post by HardRocker on May 26, 2009 10:32:31 GMT -5
Hey drix, here's an idea that I used on my 80 MC and I plan to do to my 75. I cut out a piece of panel board, I may use some Lexan this time around, to fit up under the dash and mounted the speakers to these. I ran a 140W amp for the front pair and a 160W amp for the rear pair. Sounded awesome and rattled the old ear drums without rattling the tinny bits of metal body panels like those ricer burners do these days. Here's how I attacked the situation: I had made some rough measurements, then cut a piece to that size. Got it up under then and then started looking how I'd fit it, what was in the way, where to attach, etc. I then marked the necessary trim areas and took it out and made the tweaks needed. I then cut the holes for my speakers and mounted them to the back side of the panel. I ran my wires right through the bottom of the dash and then dropped then down to the speakers. Connected them up, slipped the panels into place, secured them, and voila !!! Front and rear speakers without every cutting up an original body panel. No messing with door panels and cutting in to the frame of the door. No problems with windows and regulators... Easy-Peasy. On the driver's side I made a loop with a piece of coat hanger wire to go around the steering column and then put it through two holes in my panel board and then bent the ends over. This helped hold it up in place and then I used some slotted L-brackets on the firewall side that I'd slide tight to push the panel up to the dash, there was a little lip there. On the passenger side I just used the slotted L-brackets and slipped the front end of the board over the lip from the glove box hinge. Here's a visual aid I made up for ya... See if this works for you. I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I plan to make a set of these for the 75 this summer so if you haven't gotten to it before me, I'll post some real pictures up for you.
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Post by HardRocker on May 26, 2009 15:11:42 GMT -5
Hey Drix, I've been meaning to ask you where you have gotten some of your parts from. Like the seat covers, headliner, rear package tray.... these were all done by a local upholstery shop? Is the rear package tray (rear shelf) the original? It looks awesome. Did they just cover it over with some black vinyl? Is it slotted for the rear speakers? I was looking at getting some new pieces and thought about the seat upholstery set from The Parts Place. Have you ever gotten anything from them? I did get a set of the outside door chrome trim with window sweeps since mine the rubber has sun rotted and the rusty metal shows underneath. The new ones though are not originals but reproductions of some straight material that they then bent up on the ends to match the curve of the door. The rubber kinds of bunches up as it wasn't stretch-formed to meet the curve. I will be putting them on in a week or so, so we'll see how they fit.
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Post by drix76 on May 27, 2009 23:15:55 GMT -5
Well I can't give away all my secret places! haha, kidding. The seat "covers" arent covers at all, they are all being re-upholstered by a local shop. Although if I remember right, OPGI makes repro bucket seat, and rear seat covers in black for 73 Chevelle SS, which is the exact same as the Other Chevy A Bodies. I'll look it up later, I saw it while going through ebay. Which is a great place to get parts too, you wouldnt believe some of the stuff I've scored off there over the years. Lots of NOS, and rare things that I bought way ahead of time just because I knew I'd never see them again. I've never bought anything from the parts place. Where did you get your repro door strips? parts place? I've seen those before, but the first run were horrible and didnt fit right. I've not known anyone brave enough to buy any of the new ones they are doing, but please take some pics so I can check out how the look and fit. I have a set of NOS inner and outer strips stored away right now though.
If you need any specific parts, let me know, and I'll try to point you in the right direction. My rear package tray is an original, that I had upholstered. I DO have a plastic aftermarket one that I'm not going to be using. It fits fairly well, and since it's plastic, wouldnt suffer any damage from water or crack like the original cardboard pieces.
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Post by drix76 on Jun 18, 2009 18:53:09 GMT -5
Well right now I'm still just slowly piecing together the interior. I got my NOS glovebox door swapped finally, and I'm waiting on another box of parts to show up so I can get some more little things installed. As for bigger jobs, this is what I need to do next.
-Front disc brake upgrade from PST Suspension: Slotted rotors and ceramic pads, new wheel bearings, brake booster -U Joints! I put the car in gear, and it "clunks", I guess all that torque is ruining my oem U joints, I need some heavy duty ones! -AC Evaporator! I think thats my problem, since its the only part of the system that I've never replaced.. -start on the suspension. I think I will go about it little by little. Do the front end kit, and springs/shocks. And then work on getting the fatter sway bar, etc. -Get the Holley carb/fuel pump put on -get a tach that I can mount to the steering column
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Post by twomanymontes on Jun 18, 2009 20:32:16 GMT -5
Cool, atleast you have been making progress! Hope your parts show up soon, We want pics!!! LOL!
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Post by 85t5mcss on Jun 19, 2009 17:30:44 GMT -5
Slow and steady? I can relate to that. My steady wasnt so steady, 2 years to get remotivated
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